Thanks

Thanks 

Put the head in the bucket(most use 5 gallon plastic buckets but from what I see that may not be big enough.) You might have to improvise and it won't hurt if the horn bases are submersed.

Next, add approximately 2 to 3 ozs detergent..needs to feel slick and make bubbles... Now find a place you can plug your heater turn it to as high as it will go.. If you can insulate the container that will help keep the temp at around 99 to 104. I just use a big plastic bag to keep the water from evaporating and found fiberglass insulation works well but so will a lot of things...if you don't have that available look around and improvise again!

You need to change this water every few days to keep it clean and promote the fats to migrate out of the bone...you also need to use a sieve to catch any possible teeth that may come loose. Save them to replant after the skull is clean...Continue the water changes until there is no more oil and the water looks clean after a week or so...every skull is different so time wise it will take what it takes.

After your skull is grease free you can then whiten with peroxide...most people will bag a skull and fill the bag full of peroxide and (your bucket comes in use again) Use your 3% or some will go to a beauty supply store and get a stronger peroxide..The the horns will bleach if you get the peroxide on them so be care full about not allowing that to happen. To whiten the top of the skull use paper towels or a cloth cover that can be wet with the peroxide. Allow the skull soak for a couple of days then check the look...if it looks good then take it out and put it in the sun that will finish the whitening.... Have fun (if you do end up bleaching the horns they can be fixed! let us know how things progress

If you have questions ask, I have been very busy but I'll check back  soon.

I'm a young hunter and a couple of years ago I downed a 6x6 bull elk. Not having tons of free time, I skinned the skull and then set it into a five-gallon pail of water to soak for a while. A couple months later a found the time to pressure wash it off. I got most of the fat and meat off in this fashion and was even able to clean out the brain cavity fairly well. but then winter hit and along with winter came high school so I tossed the skull up into our barn loft and there it sat until this year. I decided to tackle the skull this summer and try to get it whitened up so it would nice to hang on a wall. I'm not in a financial position to pay for a European mount, so I asked around and was told to pour peroxide over the skull over and over again. This seems to be working alright, as the skull has cleaned up a bit in the last couple days, but the grooves in the skull remain brown and there is a large patch between the antlers and just down the nose a little bit that remains brown and I can't get it to whiten at all. I'm using three percent peroxide, as that was the strongest I could find in town. I'm open to any tips on how to clean it up. 

Thanks, 

Deadshot

We only need $40 more dollars of our $600 goal! You can donate anything you want to our experiment, even $1 would be helpful! 

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we will also be publishing our findings to that website if you want to be up to date with our research! 

It can have little bits of dried tissue that was left on the bone and can have a smell. 

Teeth glued into improper places or depths and missing teeth.

Missing nasal bones and sinus bones. Some people produce quality euros that the sinus bones were removed, however, I am partial to leaving them in.

There was a time that did a lot of euros and getting the grease out was the biggest challenge and keeping the sinus bones intact can be a pain.

I had a company that does skulls only inspect some of my skulls and got a thumbs up, so I started offering them to customers.

Somethings in taxidermy are unpleasant, however, euros, for me, were most unpleasant from start to finish.

At first I did leaving them in a cage or plastic bag, not great.

Boiling, hard to keep the sinus bones in.

Beetles are great if you have room a means to be a bug farmer.

Maceration was my chosen way. 

Degreasing is something that can be tread of it's own. Super important!

To me, the value that a quality taxidermist brings to the table goes far beyond doing the dirty work, taking the time to do it, and having invested in the equipment - he/she brings my trophy to life in a way that I simply could not - short of pursuing taxidermy as a career.

But I haven't been able to find much on european mounts. Are they just THAT simple? What differentiates an exceptional european or skull mount from a mediocre one? I see a lot of professional taxidermists doing them, so, what differentiates an outstanding european/skull mount versus a so-so one?

Or is it simply that the taxidermist deals with things like brains, flesh, offensive smells, insects, chemicals, time, etc. - that most customers (or their wives) would rather not deal with?

For the purposes of this discussion I would like to keep it limited to things that pertain to the skull/antlers on a "traditional" euro/skull mount, and not take into consideration the less permanent/more optional things like plaques, hardware, custom-painting, etc.

What will a good mount have that a lesser mount will not?

What are the telltale signs of an obvious DIY/hack job?

thanks 

Reckless said
Hi guys, I have received my last Asian Water Buffalo Skull mount only to find that both the skull and horns have not been treated fully and both are emitting a foul smell. I currently have them separate and outside in the sun. Is there anything I can do to speed up the process. The outfitter has recently gone out of business and is not taking calls.

thanks.  

Soak everything in a commercial degreaser and water solution for several days. Next cover the skull and coat the inside of the horn sheaths in powdered borax and set them to the side and the smell will slowly begin to dissipate. Add the borax while still wet so it will stick to the parts and begin to absorb the odor.

DP