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July 22, 2011
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lthfp wrote: I have found that many taxidermist, including myself sometimes, do not want to take advantage of the advancement the industry has afforded us.
Herman Im with you on that 100%. I see it everyday. People using deer forms sculpted back in the 90’s, 80’s and even the 70’s. They are convinced they are the best thing ever made.
Oh well, to each his own.
It’s kinda like this forum, where we can discuss matters such as this without calling each others idiots and stupid. Some people are still stuck in the past.:shocked:
I do think that gas from Sheetzs makes my truck run better than that gas from BP.:biggergrin:
Thats because its from PA
D.Price wrote: Herman Im with you on that 100%. I see it everyday. People using deer forms sculpted back in the 90’s, 80’s and even the 70’s. They are convinced they are the best thing ever made.
Oh well, to each his own.
It’s kinda like this forum, where we can discuss matters such as this without calling each others idiots and stupid. Some people are still stuck in the past.:shocked:
I’m trying to get away from those 80’s forms
July 22, 2011
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hackleback wrote: Anyone still use yellow dextrin on game heads?
I did up until about 4 years ago. It will work for commercial work. But when I started competing, I learned it was not gonna work to well when soemone is pushing and touching, looking for drumming. It dries so hard you can hear it crunching and cracking under the skin.
I am trying to determine if using a faster setting hide paste (like some of the epoxy based) vs a slower setting paste. Does anybody know, or have some info, on how the hide dries after it has been ‘glued’ to the form ?
I understand that the ‘benefits’ stated for a faster setting paste is that the hide stays put but if he hide is not dry what happens as it dries?
July 22, 2011
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If the ear skin is free from any dirt and residual tanning oils with the cartilage removed and the liner is trimmed to actually fit the ear skin and not too big, cleaned and roughed up any decent hide paste will hold that skin, provided you have the skin/hair patterns in the right location.
Most folks I have seen having ear drumming issues when they take my class, are using to big of ear-liner. 95% of the 18″ and 19″ in necked deer I mount need small ear-liners. Not until I get to the 20″ deer do I see medium sized ears, and it is still about 50-50 then.
If you have to force the liner any at all it is too big. Just because you can get it in there doesn’t mean it fits.
If you watch the video in the Tutorial section with me removing ear cartilage, you will see a 20″ deer cape and the liners are medium 360’s out of the bag, no trimming at all. Notice how easy it slips into the ear skin.
Joe if your referring to a deer cape! If you have the correct size form and is prepped properly you still need that cape towell dried well removing as much moisture as you can.I didn’t say dry the cape.I roll mine up with towel in and outside the cape for few hours.then I stretch cape and put new dry towells in roll up again.I let towels pull moisture all night.next day there’s enough moisture to stretch cape to size but not enough to dry to fast for a slow set paste .doing it this way you can use for example headlock epoxie. If you’ve test fit your cape and stretched it you can mount it with this epoxies and have everything where you want it because it will not move after four hours.however as d said if residual oils are not removed earskin and cape will not stick.
No worries D. I’m enjoying reading everyones different take on things, I used a set of Ferebee liners I had around on an elk today. They fit nice, I used epoxy and they look pretty good I’ll post some photo’s when I’m done. Are Bill Lancaster’s similar to Ferebee liners?
I don’t think anyone will argue that earliners give you a crisper,better looking ear edge. A couple of things I don’t like are using liners with the ear canal molded in and having to cut the ear canal off the deer. Then having to blend in the skin where you cut it to the ear liner. I don’t like the premolded ear butts. Just too limiting for gettting the expression I’m looking for. When I use liners I use the ones from Research Manikins. I can’t remember the name/manufacturer but they are white and just have a rounded end on the ear butt. I cut the end off so I can use the deer’s ear canal and don’t have to blend the skin. I’m partial to EpoGrip fast set 2 part epoxy. Unless your liner is too big, it will not drum..ever. Don’t put the liners in reversed. A left ear liner in the right ear just doesnt look right! I know, I did this quite a few years ago when I got a phone call while laying everything out and screwed up. They do not come out. Be very careful…let the phone ring! I exclusively use bondo for all my commercial work and clay the ears. If you don’t mix the bondo hot, you have plenty time to wet the ears and work the bondo to a nice ,crisp edge, plus those ears with notches in them will turn out great. If you don’t turn the ears all the way, nothing you use will make the ear look crisp. I am sold on carding the ears no matter what method. I don’t know it I gain much by this, but I also spray cheap hair spray(White Rain) on the ear edges right before I card them. For competition ears, ignore me and get advice from D or Vince Flemming!
Hey Antler the earliners mentioned earlier in this post (The Epply 360) They do come without the ear canal molded in also. I agree with you about it being easier to use them and not having to blend everything inside on the finish work. I use them on all my commercial work. What is nice about them they have the ear canal that you can snap in if you want the inner ear too. 😉
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