apoxie sculpt?|General Taxidermy Discussion|Forum|Taxidermy Talk

I think you better get it right the start with;) I have done it in the past and the one thing I did not like was if you don’t get it right the start with you can’t move it the next day. I do know guys that use it and have very good luck with it but I am not that good yet so I will stick to my critter clay;) I have also heard that Apoxie Sculpt can crack a glass eye I have never had one crack myself but have heard that.

Hope it don’t crack one!!!! I tried it today just to see. I work slow and from what I have seen it may not be for me. I will see in the next couple of days if I like it or not

honeybee man wrote: Hope it don’t crack one!!!! I tried it today just to see. I work slow and from what I have seen it may not be for me. I will see in the next couple of days if I like it or not

Like I said I used it and never had one crack but have heard of it happening before.

I have heard of mixing Apoxie Sculpt and critter clay together. I have never tried it but may try it on some deer this year to see if it cuts down on shrinkage around the eyes.

Try drying your eye skin a little more but still wet enough to work the skin and see if that will help with shrinkage some. I have not found a way to stop it competely but drying the eyes and not using water when I start working them seems to help. I am going to try the apoxie and critter clay thing this year don’t know if it will work but its worth a try;)

For the person having trouble with drumming, that is the first I have ever heard of that happening. Apoxie sculpt started to be used by Bryan to keep shrinkage from happening and drumming, so this shocks me that its happening to you.

I have a couple points I would like to add to see if it helps.

I would towl dry your eye to keep the shrinkage down, then apply the apoxie sculpt

I would also stop working your eye after 30 min if your mixing 50 50, after it stops being tacky any further moving of the skin results in no bond whatsoever, I mean no bond. So just keep an eye on that.

I mix 35 to 65 of B to A Remember B stand for “Bad” IE Hardner b is your bad boy that causes skin issues, epa issues, and cure time

If you mix at that ratio you can get 1 hour of working time and tack time.

You know what I’ll just tell you how I do it.

Day 1 mount the deer, tack the shoulders in place with a few staples, then place the eye in its socket, tuck nose, work ears, and tuck the lips.

Notice I said place the eye in its socket, an nothing more, what I do is tuck the eyes with no Filler, NO FIller. I let the eyelid shrink down to my Tru-Eye, and let it mount itself so to speak. Then on day two after the eye has fitted itself, I go back in un roll the eye and with the eye dryer/ damp I put my Apoxie in and roll the eye back in, it usually will mount iself without me even having to do anything. Its pretty awesome actually. Something my dad taught me, and many of the industry icons you see today.

Also a key note is dont apply hide past in the eye area, I stop at the tear duct, and around the eye orbital, hide paste will kill your Apoxies bond. Oh and also after modeling your eyelid, make sure to pat down the skin to get it touching the Apoxie Sculpt.

For these guys trying to work on many deer per day, it actually doesn’t lengthen the time at all it just moves your time around, instead of 4 hours today, you move it to 3:45 today and :15 tomorrow.

Try these tips, and hopefully it will work out for you.

Thanks for going over that Rudy!…I will definitely try it again..Still a little confused about the “tucking” before adding filler, not sure what your tucking into..thanks again!