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Happy New Year from Taxidermy Talk

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Happy New Year from Taxidermy Talk

Another year in the books—and another season of early mornings, cold hands, sharp knives, and long nights in the shop.

At Taxidermy Talk, we’re proud to be part of a trade built on skill, patience, and respect for the animals we work with. Taxidermy isn’t flashy, and it isn’t easy. It’s earned—one hide at a time.

This past year was about sharing real, field-tested knowledge. No shortcuts. No guesswork. Just proven techniques that help you do better work, avoid costly mistakes, and turn out mounts you can stand behind.

Looking Ahead

In the year ahead, we’re doubling down on what matters:

  • Straightforward taxidermy advice from people who do the work

  • Practical shop tips that save time and prevent problems

  • Honest discussion about tools, materials, and methods that actually work

Whether you’ve mounted thousands of animals or you’re still learning your way around a fleshing beam, our goal stays the same: to keep taxidermy knowledge strong and passed on the right way.

Thanks to every taxidermist who takes pride in the craft and puts in the hours when no one’s watching.

Here’s to a New Year full of clean capes, solid forms, tight stitches, and finished mounts you’re proud to hang on the wall.

Happy New Year. Get back to work.

Taxidermy Talk

Year-End Bookkeeping for Taxidermy Shops: Keeping It Simple

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Year-end bookkeeping guide for taxidermy

Year-End Bookkeeping for Taxidermy Shops: Keeping It Simple

If you run a taxidermy shop, your “bookkeeping system” is likely a mix of specialized software, carbon copy receipts, and handwritten notes. During the busy season, you do whatever works to keep the shop moving. That’s normal.

The headache usually arrives at year-end when it’s time to hand everything to an accountant. Here’s a straightforward way to wrap up the year without the stress.

1. Know Your Numbers

You don’t need a fancy system; you just need to show where the money came from and where it went. For most shops, this boils down to:

  • Total Income: This includes all the cash, checks, and card payments that came through the door. Whether it was a deposit on a new deer head or the final payment for a finished bird, it all counts toward your year-end total.

  • Payment Streams: Keeping track of how money entered your business (e.g., Stripe, Venmo, or physical checks) makes it much easier to reconcile your bank statements later.

2. The Pre-December 31st Checklist

Before the calendar turns, take care of these basics:

  • Match Your Deposits: Ensure every bank deposit lines up with a specific receipt or invoice. If you deposited $500 in cash, make sure you have the paperwork to back up where that $500 came from.

  • The Inventory Walkthrough: Do a quick count of high-value supplies—forms, tanning chemicals, and glass eyes. Your accountant may need an “Ending Inventory” value for your tax return to calculate your Cost of Goods Sold. (not always needed, talk to your accountant)

3. Simplify Your Expenses (The Pro Tip)

Tracking every single receipt for glue and sandpaper can be a nightmare. Here is a faster way to handle the big stuff:

  • Contact Your Suppliers: Most major taxidermy supply companies and tanneries can provide you with a Year-End Statement or a complete list of invoices with totals. Instead of hunting through your email for twelve different invoices, one phone call or email can get you a single document that covers your entire year of spending with them.

  • The Accordion Folder Method: For the smaller, daily expenses (like gas or hardware store runs), label an accordion folder by month. Drop every physical receipt into the corresponding month as soon as you get it.

  • Pro Tip: Keep your carbon copy receipt books intact. Don’t tear pages out randomly; if an auditor ever asks questions, a chronological book is your best defense.

4. Modernizing Your Shop: Custom Taxidermy Software

If you’re tired of the paper trail, consider moving to custom taxidermy management software. These tools (like MountMonitor, TSS Pro, or Taxidermy Workshop) are built specifically for the workflow of a shop.

  • Track Everything: Follow a mount from intake to the trophy room in one digital file.

  • Financial Sync: Most of these tools track income and expenses in real-time and can sync directly with QuickBooks, making tax time a push-button process.

5. Sales Tax: Don’t Ignore It

Sales tax is the quickest way to get in trouble with the state.

  • Ensure sales tax was charged on every applicable job.

  • Verify that it was filed and paid to the state.

  • Never treat sales tax as shop income—it’s money you are simply holding for the government.

6. Why an Accountant is Worth the Fee

A good accountant who understands small trades can catch deductions you’d miss. To save money on their hourly rate, bring them “clean” info:

  • Bank and credit card statements.

  • Those Year-End Statements from your supply companies.

  • Organized receipt folders (or your software reports).

  • Business mileage logs.

Bottom Line

Most taxidermy shops aren’t messy—they’re just busy. A little organization now prevents a massive headache in April. Get those supplier statements, match your deposits, and lean on a pro for the heavy lifting. Then, get back to the mounting stand.

Organizing Your Taxidermy Shop: Creating an Efficient, Professional Work Layout

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Organizing Your Taxidermy Shop: Creating an Efficient, Professional Work Layout

A well-organized taxidermy shop isn’t just about looking clean—it directly affects your speed, quality, safety, and profitability. Whether you’re mounting one deer a year or running a full-time studio, the way your tools and workspaces are laid out can make the difference between smooth workflow and constant frustration.

This guide breaks down how to organize your taxidermy shop for efficiency, cleanliness, and long-term success.

Why Shop Organization Matters in Taxidermy

Taxidermy involves sharp tools, chemicals, delicate hides, and detailed craftsmanship. Poor organization leads to:

  • Lost time searching for tools

  • Cross-contamination between dirty and clean work

  • Increased mistakes and damaged hides

  • Physical strain and fatigue

An organized shop allows you to work faster, stay cleaner, and produce more consistent, professional mounts.

Start With Defined Work Zones

The foundation of an efficient shop is separating tasks into dedicated areas. This prevents the “wet” mess of skinning from ever touching the “dry” finishing area and protects your final product.

Common Taxidermy Work Zones

Skinning & Fleshing Area
Messy, wet, and high-contamination. This area should have easy-to-sanitize floors, walls, and surfaces.

Tanning & Chemical Area
A controlled, well-ventilated space for degreasing, pickling, and chemical application.

Mounting & Form Work Area
Clean, organized, and detail-focused. This is where accuracy and consistency matter most.

Finishing & Grooming Area
A dedicated “clean room” feel for airbrushing, grooming, and final detail work.

Tool Storage & Prep Area
A centralized location for daily-use tools that allows you to reset and prepare equipment between mounts without cluttering your primary workbench.

Plan for Seasonal Workload Surges

During peak seasons, organization matters even more. Design your shop so extra capes, forms, and unfinished mounts can be staged without disrupting workflow. Temporary shelving, rolling carts, and clearly labeled overflow storage help prevent bottlenecks and rushed mistakes when volume spikes.

Precision Lighting and Digital Record-Keeping

Efficiency isn’t just physical—it’s visual and administrative.

Color-Correct Lighting
In your finishing and grooming area, invest in CRI 90+ (Color Rendering Index) lighting. Standard shop lights can distort colors, leading to painting errors that only show up when the client takes the mount into natural light.

Digital Organization
Keep a dedicated space—or a wall-mounted tablet—for record-keeping. Organized digital logs for federal and state permits, intake tags, and client notes ensure compliance without shuffling through paperwork during an inspection.

Organize Tools by Frequency of Use

One of the most common mistakes in a taxidermy shop is storing all tools together regardless of how often they’re used.

Daily-Use Tools (Within Arm’s Reach)
Scalpels, modeling/tucking tools, needles, and measuring tools. Use magnetic strips or pegboards mounted at eye level.

Occasional-Use Tools (Nearby)
Power tools, specialty jigs, and airbrush equipment stored within easy reach but off primary work surfaces.

Rare-Use Tools (Labeled Storage)
Seasonal tools or backup equipment stored in clearly labeled bins or cabinets.

Inventory Protection: Pest Control & Storage

Organization in a taxidermy shop is also about defense. Raw capes and finished mounts are high-value targets for insects and rodents.

Freezer Organization
Keep a written or digital inventory of each freezer’s contents. Organized tracking saves time, minimizes door-open time, and prevents specimens from being overlooked or improperly thawed.

Regular Inspections
Keep storage areas off the floor to make sweeping and inspection easier and to quickly spot signs of beetles or moths.

Safety and Chemical Control

Taxidermy chemicals require careful storage for both personal safety and professional liability protection.

Flammables
Store solvents, paints, and adhesives in a dedicated metal flammable-storage cabinet.

Fire Safety
Establish a strict protocol for oily rag disposal. Use a UL-listed oily waste can to prevent spontaneous combustion.

Ventilation
Ensure chemical and painting zones have active exhaust systems that pull fumes away from your breathing zone.

Design Workbenches for Comfort and Efficiency

Your workbench should work for you, not against you.

Ideal Height
Set benches at a height that prevents slouching and reduces fatigue during long mounting sessions.

Surface Material
Use non-porous, easy-to-sanitize materials such as stainless steel or heavy-duty HDPE for prep areas.

Task Lighting
Install dedicated LED task lights directly over mounting stands and detail work areas.

Establish a Clean-As-You-Go System

The most organized shops aren’t spotless because of big cleanups—they stay clean through consistent habits.

  • Put tools back immediately after use

  • Wipe benches between tasks

  • End each day with a 10-minute reset

Final Thoughts

You don’t need a massive shop or expensive cabinetry to be organized—just intentional layout, smart storage, and consistent habits. Invest time in organizing your shop now, and it will pay dividends in efficiency, craftsmanship, and professionalism for years to come.

Even if clients never see your workspace, organization shows in cleaner mounts, consistent detail work, and predictable turnaround times.

The 10-Minute Reset: Quick Wins

Before you turn off the lights tonight, do these three things:

  1. Clear your primary mounting bench so you can start fresh tomorrow.

  2. Re-index or sharpen your most-used scalpels and knives.

  3. Take out the “wet” trash to prevent odors and pests overnight.

Your morning self will thank you.

How to Handle Unruly Customers Without Losing Your Cool (or Your Mind)

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How to Handle Unruly Customers Without Losing Your Cool (or Your Mind)

…A humorous guide to surviving the occasional customer meltdown

Every business owner eventually encounters that customer—the one who walks in carrying a mysterious storm cloud, a sense of urgency that defies physics, and the emotional stability of a raccoon trapped in a soda machine.

Take a deep breath. You’re not alone, and you can handle this. Here’s a humorous-but-actually-helpful guide to making it through those moments with grace, patience, and maybe even a smile.


1. Remember: Their Mood Is Not About You

Some customers arrive pre-upset. They were mad in the parking lot. They were mad in the car on the way there. Honestly, they were probably mad last Tuesday.

Humor tactic: Pretend you’re a nature documentary narrator studying an unpredictable species.
“Ah yes, the Agitated Customer, displaying their signature plumage: heavy sighs and rapid eyebrow lifts.”

Real tactic: Stay calm. Use a steady tone. A regulated nervous system can help neutralize theirs.


2. Mirror the Emotion… But Don’t Become the Emotion

There’s a magical difference between saying,
“I understand why that’s frustrating,”
and
*“You’re right, everyone here has wronged you gravely. Let us repent.”

Humor tactic: In your head, imagine handing them a tiny Oscar statue for “Most Dramatic Entrance.”

Real tactic: Acknowledge their feelings without inflating the drama. People soften when they feel heard.


3. Ask Questions—It Disarms Them

Unruly customers often expect a fight. Surprise them with curiosity.

Try:

  • “Help me understand what happened so I can fix it.”

  • “What would feel like a good solution for you?”

Suddenly they have to be reasonable. Sneaky, but effective.


4. Set Boundaries Like a Damn Professional

Yes, “the customer is always right,” except for the times when they are absolutely, gloriously wrong.

Humor tactic: Internally recite your sacred boundaries mantra:
“I am not a doormat. I am a professional, and also a delightful human being.”

Real tactic:

  • Calmly outline what you can and cannot do

  • Stick to policies

  • Don’t negotiate with emotional terrorists (the ones who escalate to absurd demands)

Boundaries protect you, your team, and your sanity.


5. Offer Solutions Instead of Apologies on Repeat

While “sorry” is nice, “here’s what I can do for you” is better.

Humor tactic: Imagine every apology costs you $5. You’ll suddenly get very solution-oriented.

Real tactic:
Give options. Options give customers a sense of control, which reduces volatility.


6. Know When to Call Backup

There is no shame in the classic management summoning ritual:
The Subtle Nod™

If someone else on your team is better equipped to handle a certain personality type, tag them in. Superheroes do it all the time.


7. And Yes… Know When to Fire a Customer

Some people are simply not worth the revenue. If someone repeatedly abuses boundaries, staff, or policies, it’s okay—healthy, even—to say:

“We may not be the best fit for you. Here are other options.”

Humor tactic: In your mind, release them into the wild like a catch-and-release bass.


8. Celebrate Yourself Afterward

Handling an unruly customer is emotional labor. Treat yourself like you just won a tiny psychological boxing match—because you did.

Chocolate, quiet time, a walk, or a quick brag to a coworker all count as valid recovery strategies.


Final Thought: Grace + Humor = Survival

Unruly customers happen. But with humor, boundaries, empathy, and a few mental survival tactics, you can handle them without draining your soul.

And if all else fails, remind yourself:
Every meltdown becomes a great story later.

Basic Small Business Strategy: A Guide to a Successful Taxidermy Shop

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business strategy

Basic Small Business Strategy: A Guide to Success

Developing a solid business strategy is crucial for taxidermy businesses to achieve success and sustainability. A well-crafted strategy helps taxidermists navigate the competitive market, identify opportunities, and make informed decisions. In this article, we’ll explore the basic elements of a small business strategy and provide guidance on how to create one.

Understanding Your Business

1. Define your mission: Clearly articulate your taxidermy shops purpose, values, and goals.
2. Identify your target market: Understand your ideal customer, their needs, and their preferences.
3. Analyze your competition: Research your competitors and their strengths and weaknesses.

Setting Goals and Objectives

1. Establish SMART goals: Set specific, measurable, achievable, relevant, and time-bound goals.
2. Prioritize objectives: Focus on key objectives that align with your mission and goals.

Marketing and Sales Strategy

1. Develop a unique value proposition: Clearly communicate your business’s unique benefits and value.
2. Choose marketing channels: Select effective marketing channels to reach your target audience.
3. Create a sales strategy: Develop a plan to convert leads into customers.

Operations and Management

1. Define your business model: Determine your revenue streams, cost structure, and key activities.
2. Establish operational processes: Develop efficient processes to manage day-to-day operations.
3. Build a strong team: As your taxidermy shop grows, hire talented employees and invest in their development.

Financial Planning

1. Create a budget: Establish a comprehensive budget that outlines projected income and expenses.
2. Manage cash flow: Monitor and manage cash flow to ensure business sustainability.
3. Explore funding options: Consider financing options, such as loans or investments.

Measuring Success

1. Track key performance indicators (KPIs): Monitor metrics that measure business performance.
2. Conduct regular reviews: Regularly review and adjust your strategy to ensure alignment with goals.
3. Stay adaptable: Be prepared to pivot your strategy in response to changing market conditions.

Exploring Wisconsin: Stehlings Taxidermy’s Two Locations

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Exploring Wisconsin: Stehlings Taxidermy’s Two Locations

Dive into the world of wildlife preservation at Stehling’s Taxidermy, a Wisconsin institution with over half a century of artistry across two unique locations.

Dive into the world of wildlife preservation at Stehling’s Taxidermy, a Wisconsin institution with over half a century of artistry across two unique locations.

 

Unveiling Stehlings Taxidermy: A Legacy of Craftsmanship

Stehlings Taxidermy stands as a testament to the meticulous art of taxidermy, with a history that spans over 50 years. This family-owned business has become a cornerstone in the Green Bay area, renowned for its dedication to quality, detail, and the lifelike preservation of wildlife. The legacy of craftsmanship at Stehlings is not just about preserving memories of the hunt or outdoor adventures, it’s about honoring the beauty of nature’s creatures with a respectful and artistic approach.

The artistry at Stehlings Taxidermy extends beyond traditional methods, continuously evolving with innovative techniques and materials. Every piece that leaves the workshop tells a story, capturing the essence of the animal in a static moment in time. It’s this commitment to excellence that has solidified Stehlings Taxidermy’s reputation among enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Jefferson: The Original Stehlings Experience

The original Stehlings Taxidermy location in Jefferson, Wisconsin, is where the magic began. This site is steeped in history and tradition, serving as the birthplace of countless masterpieces. Here, visitors can witness the depth of Stehlings’ expertise, where generations of family members have honed their skills and passed down secrets of the trade.

Jefferson’s location is not just a workshop; it’s a gallery of past works and a window into the taxidermist’s world. The walls are adorned with an array of species, each one showcasing the intricate work and passion that Stehlings Taxidermy pours into every project.

Green Bay: Stehlings Taxidermy’s Expansion

In Green Bay, Stehlings Taxidermy has expanded its reach, bringing the same level of artistry and precision to a new audience. This location upholds the same high standards set by the original workshop, while also bringing in fresh perspectives and techniques that complement the established legacy.

At the Green Bay location, visitors can expect to find a modern space that merges the time-honored practice of taxidermy with contemporary advancements. The expansion reflects the brand’s dedication to growth and its commitment to serving the community’s needs for quality taxidermy services.

Comparing the Craft: Distinct Features of Each Location

While both Wisconsin locations of Stehlings Taxidermy share a common thread of excellence, each has its own unique features that distinguish it. The Jefferson site is imbued with the rich history of the Stehlings family, offering a classic and intimate glimpse into the taxidermy process. It’s like walking through a living museum where each piece has a story.

Green Bay, on the other hand, showcases the evolution of Stehlings Taxidermy. It’s here that innovation meets tradition, where the latest industry techniques are applied with the same meticulous attention to detail that defines the Stehlings name. The Green Bay location serves as a bridge between the past and the future of taxidermy.

Planning Your Visit: Tips and Must-Sees at Stehlings Taxidermy

When planning a visit to Stehlings Taxidermy, there are a few tips to keep in mind. First, check the opening hours for each location, as they may vary. Consider calling ahead to schedule a tour or to ensure staff is available to answer any questions you may have. Don’t miss the signature displays at each site, which highlight the diversity and skill inherent in Stehlings’ work.

Whether you’re an avid hunter, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about the art of taxidermy, Stehlings offers a unique and educational experience. Take the time to explore both locations, and appreciate the subtle nuances that make each one special. Remember to respect the displays and the craft, as each piece represents a life and a story that Stehlings Taxidermy has meticulously preserved.

Stehling’s Taxidermy LLC Breaks Ground for New Facility

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JEFFERSON ,WI – Stehling’s Taxidermy, a business with a 40-year-plus history in the community, broke ground Wednesday on a new, larger facility near its current operations on North Parkway Street in Jefferson’s North Business Park.

Owned and operated by brothers Aaron and Austin Stehling, the business will be located at 913 N. Parkway St., just north of the existing facility, which is located at 780 N. Parkway.

The new structure will measure 7,200 square feet, compared to 4,800 square feet in the current building. It will include a 2,400-square-foot showroom featuring displays of wildlife from around the world, and a 4,800-square-foot, state-of-the-art production area.

Greg Stehling, father of the current owners, started the business back in the 1970s. The two brothers learned the trade from their father, learning not only taxidermy techniques but also how to manage the business.

“We eventually took over the business from him and all production and management activities,” said Aaron Stehling, operations manager and co-owner of the taxidermy business, which is licensed by the state and federal governments.

Co-owner Austin Stehling explained that the business provides worldwide service to hunting and fishing enthusiasts, and helps to create sporting goods store displays and outdoor décor for restaurants, theme parks, museums and the biological education market.

“With this expansion of our state-of-the-art production studio and world-class showroom, we can continue to fulfill the needs of our current clients and target new venues, as well,” Austin said.

Site work is under way, and construction on the building itself is expected to start in August and to be completed later this year.

In attendance at the official groundbreaking ceremony Wednesday morning were numerous local officials, Jefferson Chamber of Commerce ambassadors, and representatives of various companies and businesses associated with the project.

These included: Matt Davis of Jefferson Current Electric; Dale Oppermann, Jefferson mayor; Ed Spiegelhoff of S&S Plumbing; Tom Gallitz of Gallitz Grading; Aaron and Austin Stehling, co-owners of the business.

Also, Tim Freitag, Jefferson city administrator; Edwin Bos of Bos Design Builders; Jen Pinnow, executive director of the Jefferson Chamber of Commerce.

And, Bill Pinnow, Jefferson city engineer and director of the Public Works Department; Tom Merfeld of PremierBank; Mark Catton of PremierBank and the chamber board of directors; Luke Walsh, certified public accountant; Rosy Richter, business manager for Richter Heating; Kim Kysely of the chamber board, and Mark Rollefson, Jefferson superintendent and a chamber representative.

You can learn more about Stehling’s Taxidermy on their web site www.taxidermyplanet.com or by calling 920.674.3724

Photo and article courtesy of the Daily Jefferson County Union .

Article by Pam Wilson & Chris Spangler

A Look Back at Taxidermy Turkey Reference Pictures

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Turkey Reference

If you have not read my previous article on turkey reference pictures written last year you can do so by going here.

For many taxidermists the deer season is the busiest time of the year when it comes to taking in work. For a few other taxidermists the 2nd busiest time of the year is in the spring during the spring turkey hunting season. Not all taxidermists mount turkeys and one reason being is that turkeys can be just down right intimidating. It’s just not about having good turkey reference pictures on hand, but how you interpret and apply the reference to the taxidermy turkey mounting process.

Anyone can surf google images for turkey reference pictures while downloading and printing them out. That’s what most of us do and heck I’ve even done it. But before the internet came along I use to grab pictures from a magazine called Turkey & Turkey Hunting. Another great way to collect a swath of turkey reference pictures is to watch a bunch of hunting videos you have bought over the years. Pause the DVD player when you see a great reference shot and snap a pic with your phone or camera.  If you have a smart TV that can capture images from the screen even more the better.

There is a ton of ways to collect turkey reference pictures. However there is no better way than to actually take the pics yourself while observing turkey behavior. There is no better way to collect turkey reference picture then to get up close to a strutting gobbler who will allow you to take pic after pic. A good gobbler is a gobbler that will pose for you in all positions and practically walk up to your feet while doing it. I found that good gobbler yesterday.

I had no intensions yesterday of taking any turkey reference pictures let alone of any turkey. The pictures in this article only happened due to a pancake breakfast the family and I attended. After we ate the family wanted to walk to the other end of the property to check things out. I was reluctant to go and sure as hell didn’t want to walk all the way down to the south end of the property to see a couple of cows and a horse. Before I could say no that’s when I heard it. Goooooobbbbleeeee! And then it all flashed back to me.

You see a couple of summers ago on the same piece of property I encountered this big boy with two of his buddies. I took the best pics I could of them but they turned out like crap. Reason being is that they would not come down off the hill to the fence line while strutting. This was too far for my cell phone to capture detailed images of the strutting turkeys. Well I know its March and spring is this month, but there are still feet (not inches) of snow still on the ground. This old boss tom had no choice but to be forced down at the hen house because that’s where all the food was along with his treasure of hens.

If you have not guessed it yet, this is a penned domestic turkey that’s been fed very well. His two buddies must have passed on or something because they were nowhere to be found.

I have seen a few different domesticated turkeys over the years but this particular breed (not to be fooled by his white feathers) is probably the closest to an actual eastern wild turkey I have ever encountered. The body size and his behavior during my visit were pretty much consistent to what I see in wild eastern turkeys. His walking pattern, his spit and drumming, his wing dragging, his feather shingling and his overall attitude while strutting was systematic to the birds I hunt here in New York. If you ask me this bird would have mounted up nice on a McKenzie TK42 turkey body.

So with cell phone in hand me and this bird had a little photo shoot. Enjoy the pics.

Understanding Whitetail Deer Ears

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Whitetail deer ears

Scutiform cartilage, conchal cartilage, scutilaris muscle group, auricle muscle group, to name a few all have what in common? They all belong to the ear and earbutt of a whitetail deer ears and all play an important role to the ears movement and attachment point to the skull. Don’t worry if you can’t remember the names by heart, because without my notes in front of me it would be nothing more than a tongue tied twisting dialog.

Lutan FN Tanning in Cold Weather

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Lutan FN

A lot of questions I see on the Facebook taxidermy groups this time of the year pertain to pickling and tanning during the winter months. If you’re tanning inside a climate control room that has access to heat 24/7 then this article will be of little use to you. But if you’re like me and don’t run heat 24/7 inside the shop or do you’re tanning outside in a shed or cold garage, then by all means read on.

If I had to choose between a pickle or tan on which one would get the heat and I could only choose one or the other it would be the tan. And that’s only if I’m doing a submersible tan like with Lutan FN and not a brush on tan. A brush on tan like Pro-1 is a totally different animal when it comes to tanning and your deer cape would be required to be inside a climate control room to complete the process.

I don’t worry too much about my pickle temps. Once salt is dissolved in the initial pickle mix of hot water it does not come back into a solid state or as I have heard from others “falling out of the solution”, when the temp of the pickle drops. What does happen in very cold weather is the salt volume of the mixture (40%) in a very cold pickle will sink to the bottom of the pickle. I have had pickle solutions over the deep cold winter month’s ice up if left unattended for a period of time.  Pickle vats that are not raised off an uninsulated floor will ice up quicker. The acidity of the pickle will however not be effected by the cold temperatures. If you attend to your pickle baths daily by agitating the pickle with your deer capes, you will be fine and should not see any ice up from a cold shop.

I have pickled deer capes during the dead of winter in my taxidermy shop with water temps dipping well into the low 30’s.  I am well known to leave hides and capes in a pickle for weeks and months at a time. Sometimes for a year or more and no I don’t worry ever about acid swelling.  A deer cape will on average absorb all the acid it will hold within 4 to 5 days.  If you mix in the right amount of salt with your pickle and it all dissolves during the pre-mix, you should be good to go. At any time during the pickling process you can check the salinity of your pickle if you become too worried. I like to be around the 40% mark on the salinity meter for all my pickles. To get that ratio mix one full measuring cup to one gallon of water. Not one cup in measurement but fill the entire measuring cup to the top, pass the one cup mark. You should have about a pound of salt per cup. To repeat mix your acid and salt with hot water to get all ingredients to dissolve. Five to eight gallons of water per deer cape is about what you want for a pickle. Always allow the pickle solution to cool to room temp before placing a raw cape into the pickle.

Before I pickle any cape or hide I will wash and rinse them using cold water and Kemal 4 to remove blood and dirt.  By doing this you will give your pickle a longer life and will not see too much of a pH rise. Dirty pickles will live a short life and will require heavy monitoring for pH rise. Pickles should always look clean and not brown or dirty.

So once our deer cape is pickled and shaved it’s time to move onto the tanning. We might have gotten away with a cold pickle in the shed or garage, but if tanning with a submersible tan like Lutan FN we will need a little heat. Don’t worry if your situation requires you to do your tanning in an unheated garage, shed or even in the basement because we have a solution to keep your tanning solution warm.

In this day and age you either have a Wally World with a good size pet section or a brand name pet store within driving distance. Perhaps both stores are within town. If you have a brand name pet store go to the pet store because they have a better selection of what you’re going to need to buy. But first while on the way to the pet store stop on by your favorite dollar store and grab a plastic tote like seen in the featured picture of this article. Oh and be sure to stop at a building supply and buy a short length of 2 inch PVC pipe. They do sell these pipes in 1 or 2 foot sections. At least my Home Depot does.

At the pet store you will need to buy a fish tank heater that can heat water as high as 80 to 85 degrees and is capable of doing that in 3 to 4 gallons of water. You will next buy a power head also located in the fish supply isle of the pet store. The power head will be used to keep your warm tanning water circulating during the tanning process.

That piece of PVC pipe you bought will need holes drilled into it, ½ or ¾ in size. No rhythm or rhyme on the holes, drill as many as you like. Our tank heater will sit inside the PVC at the bottom of our tanning bath. The pipe is to avoid any direct contact with the tank heater and deer cape while in operation.

The power head will suck up water from the bottom of the unit and spray it out on top continuously. To get it to work just right will require you to make the proper adjustments by raising it or lowering it etc.  Once in the correct height inside the tote, I use a spring clamp to hold it. Any deer hair in the tan can and will clog the power head. On my set up I attached a plastic hose to the bottom with a screen. Collagen can also be an enemy of the power head. To get the power head going submerge the entire unit to allow all the air to escape from the unit, the slowly raise the power head above the water line.

This set up will solve your cold weather dilemmas. You will constantly have a heated tan but you must keep the lid on at times during the tanning process as the water in the tan will evaporate. In 18 hours you will have a fully tanned deer cape, provided it was pickled and shave correctly. Do not keep the deer cape in the tan for any more then 16 to 18 hours.

When tanning one deer cape mix 4 gallons of water, 6 dry measured ounces of Lutan FN and 2 lbs of salt is all you will need. Mix this all up well before putting in your pickled deer cape.

Any submersible taxidermy tanning agent like Lutan FN requires warm water to be effective. This set up explained and describe will provide you with just that. What happens to our own bodies when we take a hot bath? We become pruned and for some of us bloated. This is exactly what is happing to our deer capes in the hot tanning bath. They are plumping up and by plumping up the fiber structure is expanding. This makes for great penetration of the Lutan FN.

Tips I have for tanning with Lutan FN is not to neutralize between pickle and tan. After you have allowed the pickled cape to drip dry for an hour, place immediately into the tan. Your Lutan FN solution should be around a 3 pH when mixed. This will start to basify the cape while tanning. After you pull your cape from the tan go ahead and neutralize in the shop sink using 1 ounce of baking soda and a ½ pound of salt per gallon of WARM water. The golden rule is to neutralize for 20 minutes and no more. That’s totally up to the tanner but I actually go by the feel of the cape. A neutralized cape will have good stretch and a totally different texture then when acidic. It will feel slick and slippery. Make sure you also get the hair side of the cape when neutralizing also.

Work the deer cape good. Do not walk away from the sink. Swish and agitate around frequently while pretending to be a washing machine. You may notice some white pieces of flesh floating around or stuck to the hair. This is normal and it is what we call collagen.

After you are sure your deer cape is neutralized wring it out and allow to drain. Your next step will be oiling, but that will not be until you have the cape pretty much dry to the point that the flesh side is damp.

Good luck and happy tanning.

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